Phnom Penh

As we made the journey from the border to the capital, I was startled by the distinct difference between neighboring Vietnam and Cambodia. While Vietnam's border post is distinctly Soviet and harsh in its appearance, Cambodia's entry building is reminiscent of an Angkor temple, far grander and artistic than what we had just passed through. While the streets of the former are lined with crammed together cement block homes, garages and businesses, Cambodia's streets offer extended views of rice fields as far as the eye can see. As we entered Phnom Penh I was struck by how much space there is in contrast to my previous home. Buildings are larger, lower and a fair distance separates many of the buildings. I've taken an immediate liking to this city with its bustling streets, friendly people, colonial feeling.

Upon arrival we grabbed a Tuk Tuk down to the lake where we checked into our $2/night room, a small yet clean room sans a window or en suite bathroom much to Mr. NoStarTravel's dismay. The highlight of 'Happy's on the Lake' is a relaxed backpackers cafe with hammocks, couches and laid-back travelers relaxing by the side of Boeung Kak lake. I love it.

After a slow start to the morning, we hit the road. Our motorbike drivers sped us away, traversing their city while pointing out various sites along the way. Our destination was Tuol Sleng, the former Khmer Rouge S-21 Prison, that now serves as a Khmer Rouge genocide museum. Having read up on Cambodia's horrifying recent history, I was prepared to see some startling relics but nothing could have prepared me for the tiny, cement prison cells, the skulls, the torture chambers, original photographs of the 10,499 adults and nearly 2,000 children who entered the prison while only seven people left alive.

Some excerpts from the information booklet:

The prisoners were kept in their respective cells and shackled with chains fixed to the walls or the concrete floors. The prioners were required to abide by all the regulations. To do anything, even to alter their positions while trying to sleep, the inmates had first to ask the permission from the prison guards. Anyone breaching these rules was severely beaten. Young children ranging from 10 to 15 years of age were trained and selected by the KR regime to work as guards. Most of them started out as normal before growing increasingly evil. They were exceptionally cruel and disrespectful towards the prisoners.

After this quieting experience our drivers whisked us off to the Killing Fields where the prisoners were taken to be executed. I realized how small PP is when we found ourselves on a dirt path surrounded by cows, bamboo huts and rice fields within 10 minutes of the heart of the city. We continued for 15 km of bumpy and, at times, non-existent road. Trucks rolled past, sending clouds of red dirt through the air as we crossed soiled rivers lined with homes on stilts, passed young children playing in the fields, hair salons in bamboo huts 5-feet tall and the prevalent signs of the Cambodia People's Party. We soon made it to the Killing Fields, home to mass graves where almost 9,000 people fell to their deaths. The graves have been well preserved and, as we stepped over bones protruding from the earth and tattered clothing lining the pathways, a cloud of sadness passed over me as I imagined the terror so many people experienced as they were led to their deaths.

It's difficult for me to imagine how such a brutal regime has existed in recent history. Over 2 million people were killed, almost a third of the population, many of whom were the life and blood of the country. Doctors, Teachers, anyone with an education, people who wore glasses, anyone from the former regime or any relation to someone in it were killed. The statistics are terrifying yet real.

After a morning of surreal sites, the three of us headed to the market where we sampled various food. Completely helpless with our collective three Khmer words, we asked for vegetarian food by pinching our flesh and crossing our arms, for fish by squiggling our arms in the air and we were successful with both requests. A deep fried, doughy dumpling filed with spring onions and spinach and a bowl of light noodle curry set us back by less than $0.60 a piece. Unbelievable.

And now, as the sun yet again dips below the lake, setting the sky into an orange and pink collage, we're getting ready to meet Meng, an old friend of Mike's and a lively, energetic Khmer who's excited to take us out on the town.